A local's companion to the Wild Atlantic Way and Causeway Coastal Route.

Southern start of the WAW. Forts, food, harbour town.

Inchydoney beach. Black pudding country. Michael Collins' patch.

Sailing town, the Beacon, ferries to Sherkin and Cape Clear.

The signal station footbridge. Ireland's true south-west corner.

The quiet peninsula. The walking is the point.

Where the Beara and Iveragh peninsulas meet. Stone circle, food town.

Sneem, Waterville, Skellig view. Drive it anti-clockwise.

Slea Head Drive, the Blasket Sound, Fungie's town.

Banna Strand, Ballybunion, the Shannon estuary mouth.

The lighthouse, the bridges of Ross, dolphins in the estuary.

Horseshoe bay, the Pollock holes, the cliff walk.

The cliffs everyone comes for. Doolin for the music after.

Lisdoonvarna, Ballyvaughan, limestone pavement and rare orchids.

Latin Quarter, Spanish Arch, the cultural heart of the west.

Inis Mór, Inis Meáin, Inis Oírr. Dún Aonghasa and the Plassey.

Clifden, Roundstone, the Twelve Bens, Kylemore Abbey.

Ferry from Cleggan. The kind of quiet you forget exists.

Croagh Patrick, the Greenway, a planned town that works.

Granuaile's tower, Knockmore, the quiet of Inishturk.

Keem Bay, the Atlantic Drive, the deserted village at Slievemore.

Belmullet, the long strands, the islands at the end.

Downpatrick Head, Céide Fields, salmon on the Moy.

Yeats country, Knocknarea, the surf at Strandhill.

Classiebawn castle, the harbour, the big-wave reef offshore.

The castle, the diamond, and the highest sea cliffs accessible in Ireland.

Folk village, the Tower at Glen Head, end-of-the-road quiet.

Gaeltacht heartland, hundreds of lakes, ferry to Arranmore.

Two ferries, two very different worlds. Cliffs, kingship, round tower.

Horn Head, Killahoey beach, McAuliffe's bookshop.

Sheephaven Bay, Tranarossan, the Atlantic Drive.

Fanad lighthouse, the Great Pollet arch, the Inishowen 100.

The northern terminus. Banba's Crown, Hell's Hole, the EIRE sign.