The Atlantic Companion · Wild Atlantic Way · Mayo
Cliara — Clare Island — guards the mouth of Clew Bay, 5km off the Mayo coast. About 160 people, a 460m mountain (Knockmore), and the 16th-century tower house of Granuaile (Grace O'Malley), the pirate queen who ruled this stretch of Atlantic and met Elizabeth I as an equal. Inis Toirc — Inishturk — sits 14km further south-west, 600m of population, two harbours, a single road and the kind of dark sky you can read by. Both are reached from Roonagh pier near Louisburgh, an hour west of Westport.
Two islands at the mouth of Clew Bay. Ferries from Roonagh.
First things first
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The essentials
Locally chosen, not algorithmic. In rough order of "if you only do one thing".
Drive
The mainland departure point for both islands, 8km west of Louisburgh. Clare Island Ferry and O'Malley's both run to Clare Island year-round (15-min crossing, several daily). Inishturk has a separate sailing — typically two return crossings a day in summer, fewer in winter, weather permitting.
Good to know · Free parking at the pier. Café and toilets. Always check weather before booking — both routes cancel in heavy westerlies.
History
A 16th-century tower house at the harbour, the stronghold of Grace O'Malley — Granuaile, the pirate queen who controlled Clew Bay shipping in the 1500s and famously sailed to London to negotiate with Elizabeth I in 1593. The tower is small, square, and unmistakable as you arrive on the ferry.
Good to know · Free, exterior viewing. Interior currently not accessible.
Nature
The 461m mountain that dominates the island. A waymarked walk to the summit — about 2 hours up from the harbour — gives a clean view over Clew Bay's 365 islands and across to Croagh Patrick on a good day. Steep at the top.
Good to know · Free. Map at the community centre. Allow 4 hours return. Don't go in cloud — exposed western edge.
History
A small ruined Cistercian church on the island's south side, with rare 15th-century painted ceiling murals — birds, dragons, a stag hunt. Granuaile is said to be buried here. The murals are some of the only surviving medieval church paintings in Ireland.
Good to know · Free, key from the Bay View Hotel if locked. 20-min walk from the harbour.
Island
Population around 50. A single looped road, two beaches (Tranaun and Curraun), a small harbour, a community centre that doubles as the bar. Walk the western cliff path for views to Achill Head and the open Atlantic. The island runs a famous summer half-marathon. Self-catering only — book accommodation well ahead.
Good to know · Pop. ~50. One pub. No shop — bring food if staying. Limited beds; book months ahead in summer.
Town
The mainland gateway town, 8km from Roonagh pier. Granuaile Visitor Centre tells Grace O'Malley's story properly. Doolough valley to the south is one of the great Mayo drives — and the site of a Famine memorial walk. A useful base if you can't get an island bed.
Good to know · Fuel, two pubs, a Centra. Granuaile Centre open seasonally.
Local businesses
Hand-picked, not paid for. The ferries, the beds, the pubs and the bike hire that make a visit work.
Before you go. These listings are compiled from public sources and aren't yet verified by the businesses themselves. Hours, menus and prices change with the seasons — always check directly with the venue before travelling, and book ahead in July and August. Owners can get in touch to update their listing.
Drink
On the harbour at Clare Island — the pub by the pier, with food, a fire and a session most weekends in season. Where you sit out the wait if the ferry's late.
Drink
The island's only bar — a community-owned club above the harbour. Pints, simple food, the entire population some nights. You sign in as a guest at the door.
Stay
On Clare Island just up from the harbour — hostel beds and private rooms in a converted coastguard station, plus the Sailor's Bar (food and live music in season). The first stop most walkers make off the ferry.
Stay
Yoga and horse retreat on a working organic farm in the centre of Clare Island — silent retreats, week-long programmes, vegetarian food from the polytunnels. Properly off-grid in a way the mainland can't do.
Stay
1806 lighthouse on the cliffs at the north end of Clare Island, restored as a small luxury guesthouse — six rooms, sea on three sides, full board. Robbie and Monica's labour of love. The island's quietest splurge.
Stay
Phyllis Heanue's B&B on Inishturk — three rooms, Atlantic out the window, dinner by arrangement. One of three places to stay on the island. Book direct, weeks ahead.
Stay
Mary Heanue's B&B at the south of Inishturk, looking down on Tranaun Bay — five rooms, full breakfast, evening meal if asked. Walking distance to the harbour and the Mountain Common loop.
Do
O'Malley family ferries from Roonagh Pier (15 min west of Louisburgh) — Clare Island in 25 minutes, Inishturk on charter. Multiple sailings daily May–September, fewer in winter. Book online for Clare Island; phone for Inishturk.
Run a place in Clare Island & Inishturk?
Our directory is curated, not pay-to-play. If we'd recommend you, you can be on here.
See how to get listedGot a window or a counter?
Download a free A5 QR card for Clare Island & Inishturk — print it, stick it up, and visitors land straight on the Clare Island & Inishturk guide.
Ask a local
Grace O'Malley's tomb in Clare Island Abbey
The pirate queen of Connacht is buried in a tiny Cistercian abbey on the south side of the island. Bring a torch — the painted ceiling is the only one of its kind in Ireland and the light's poor.
The Inishturk loop walk at sunset
Five miles around the headlands, four hours if you stop. Last ferry off is early — stay the night at the community-run B&B and walk it after dinner when the colour comes in.
Know a Clew Bay islands spot worth sharing?
Hidden gems on this page are written by locals, not us. The right swim cove on Clare Island, the Inishturk cliff path that doesn't get walked, the half-marathon weekend — tell us and we'll add it.
Common questions
Clare Island Ferry runs from Roonagh Pier, about 5 km west of Louisburgh in County Mayo, year-round. Two operators (Clare Island Ferry and O'Malley Ferries) run several sailings a day in summer; the crossing takes about 25 minutes. Book ahead in July and August.
Yes — Clare Island is the largest island in Clew Bay, with a striking cliff coastline at Knockmore (462 m), the restored tower house of the pirate queen Grace O'Malley, an early Cistercian abbey with rare medieval ceiling paintings, and a small but proud Gaeltacht community.
Inishturk is reached by the O'Malley Ferries sailing from Roonagh Pier near Louisburgh in County Mayo, year-round. The crossing takes about 45 minutes. Fewer sailings than Clare Island — usually one or two a day — so check the timetable carefully and book ahead.
Yes for travellers who want one of the quietest inhabited offshore islands in Ireland. Around 50 people live on Inishturk year-round; the island has two looped walks, a small harbour, a community centre with a café, and a near-total absence of crowds. It's a much slower experience than Clare Island.
Practical
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